The announcement that the chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten was opening a restaurant in a glassy skyscraper on Park Avenue didn’t surprise me. A madly prolific international restaurateur, he seems to open restaurants like browser tabs (56 to date). My ears perked up when I heard that the new place, Four Twenty Five, was to be a haute cuisine restaurant, Mr. Vongerichten’s first in New York City since 1997, when he debuted the dizzyingly innovative, four-star Jean-Georges.

But when I learned that the kitchen would be helmed by Jonathan Benno, the Per Se veteran whose own celebrated restaurants, Benno and Leonelli, sadly closed during the pandemic? That was a shock.

ImageFour Twenty Five is the first restaurant that the celebrity chefs Jonathan Benno, left, and Jean-Georges Vongerichten have collaborated on. Credit...Janice Chung for The New York Times

Two megawatt celebrity chefs in one kitchen is practically unheard-of, besides being proverbially too many. And this particular pairing is doubly unexpected, because while Mr. Vongerichten is a notorious renegade, famous for his boldly spiced, Asian-inflected global cuisine,superace88 casino Mr. Benno is an ingredient-driven purist, hewing closer to French and Italian tradition. Translating all of these influences into a cohesive menu is a big challenge. Would their disparate styles emulsify, like wine and butter, into a beautiful beurre blanc? Or would the mixture break?

ImageA dish of butter-poached lobster was inspired by pepper crab, a fiery Singaporean street food.Credit...Janice Chung for The New York TimesImageThe mezzanine dining room is cantilevered over the convivial bar; you reach it via the sweeping staircase at the back of the room.Credit...Janice Chung for The New York Times

At first glance, Four Twenty Five seems to be playing it safe. Fluke crudo, baby beets and winter squash agnolotti are all comfortingly familiar, verging on dull. You can order the obligatory Wagyu beef as a tenderloin or a strip steak, depending on your penchant for chewing and the depth of your pockets (the tenderloin is $84 and the strip is $118). Throw in the butter-poached lobster and caviar for the expense-account crowd, and pretty much all the usual boxes have been ticked.

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